Big Island tour

My friends Usha and Peter recently came to visit me from Switzerland. So it was the perfect opportunity for me to tour around Oahu to places I still had not seen. We also made a trip to the Big Island where Kilauea Volcano, a live volcano still continues to erupt and shapes the island to this day. It made me realize again, what an amazingly beautiful place Hawaii is and how fortunate I am to be surrounded by such beauty here. So different from the fast paced life in the big cities I'd been gravitating to and energized by in the past. I finally find myself learning to appreciate the slower pace of life here. However, nothing stays the same. Who knows how long I'll stay here. Perhaps there is a time and place for everything. For now, perhaps this is a good break...

Sunset at Sunset Beach at Northbeach on Oahu

Usha and Peter, enjoying the sunset at Sunset Beach on the northbeach area of Oahu 

Once we arrived on the Big Island at Kona on the west coast, we began a road trip along the north coast past a quaint little town that seemed lost in the 1950s called Hawi. Then we got a little lost and somehow ended up at this place - the Palolu lookout at Hapuu Bay. There was a hiking trail that led to the black sand beach below. We couldn't resist and began our hike down. The view was beyond spectacular.

Palolu Lookout of Hapuu Bay on the northeast coast 

View towards the valley at Hapuu Bay while hiking down to the beach below 

A stunning black sand beach, created from a volcanic eruption in the past

Another amazing landscape  of Waipio Valley at the end of the Honoka'a-Waipio road on the northeast coast 

The next day, we drove south along the west coast to another infamous black sand beach - Punalu'u Black sand Beach. The beach is too rocky for swimming though the deep blue water was tempting but it's where the sea turtles lay around in the sun. That was a pretty cool sight.

Punalu'u Black sand Beach on the southwest coast of Big Island 

Punalu'u black sand Beach

Passing by the Puako Bay area on the west side of the Big Island, we stopped to walk along a portion of the Ala Kahakai trail to see interesting ancient petroglyphs left by the Hawaiians before there were road on the island. These petroglyphs were revered as sacred charms that protected the travelers from harm and evil spirits.  

Petroglyphs left by the ancient Hawaiians on this ancient trail that once hugged the west coast of the Big Island

We stayed at the Volcano Village for a couple nights and got a chance to see the glow from Kīlauea Volcano which erupted in 1952 and still erupts occasionally to this day! Thankfully, the wind wasn't blowing the sulfuric fumes our way that night.

One of the many craters n the Volcano Park with a live volcano behind

Kilauea Volcano during the day

Kilauea volcano glow at night

Another live volcano within the Volcano Park

A bizarre sight within the Volcanic park where there was only lava from horizon to horizon, barren of any vegetation

A natural volcanic formation of an arch created by the crashing sea waves

Entire shelfs of lava have collapsed into the ocean before so we were warned to proceed with caution

A natural lava formation called Pele's Hair, created when the lava cools as it flows

A natural ground explosion as the lava below cools at a different temperature from the lava on top

The scenic road that once was here in a lush expensive neighborhood, ending abruptly with the lava flowing through

This place once used to be a lush tropical neighborhood for the rich, now covered by miles of lava 

The different colors of the lava up close, formed by minerals like copper, cobalt, sulphur and calcium

Lava Trees Park in Pahoa in the Puna District of the Big Island. It preserves lava molds of the tree trunks that were formed when a lava flow swept through a forested area in 1790. Somehow, these petrified lava logs were an elegant reminder of the trees that once lived here before the live trees that exist there now stand.

Petrified tree stumps at the Lava Trees State Park

Beautiful jurassic trees at the Lava Trees State Park in the Puna District

This Ahalanui Hot Spring area is a natural hot spring salt water pool area because of the volcanic heat from below, making it a comfortable swim, as fresh water from the sea pours in. I didn't take a dip this time but I hope to return one day and lounge in the water for a long long time.

Ahalanui Hot Spring Park at Pahoa (East coast of the Big Island) 

Ahalanui Hot Spring Park 

Judd and Nuuanu Trail hike

My adventurous side kicked in again today and I needed another break from routine so I decided to get out into the wild again and explore another part of O'ahu. This time, I tried to find the trail head to the Nu'uanu trail. One thing about the trails and surf spots in Hawaii is they're quite non-descript and low key. Unless you have some access to some local, you could pass it and never know it was there. The trails are often not well marked. Again, I referred to my trusty favorite Hiking trail guide online. Apparently this trail is quite a hard one to do but I was ready for the challenge. The last couple days had been pouring rain all day and I was itching out get out for some fresh air. There's two ways to get to the Nu'uanu trail but it is really elusive. I decided to take the Judd trail, a trail that goes in a circle but connects to the Nu'uanu trail.

Judd trail starts here but I had to cross over these river rocks first

Thankfully the rocks weren't as slippery as they looked and the water level was just below the rocks. The journey begins. The Judd trail started with a beautiful bed of bamboo which knocked against each other as the wind blew. I kept looking around, thinking someone was coming through the trees.  I've never heard knocking like that before in a forest.

Bamboo forest

Not sure what trees these are but good light and non mosquito infested as the tropical forest deeper in

stairwell of roots on Judd trail

I drove out to Pali Nuuanu Drive. After quite a while, I found the trail head which started at an unassuming concrete bridge. No signs. I soon found a sign which said Judd trail. Then I passed through a patch covered in Norfolk Pines. Felt like I went from China to the Midwest woodlands. It was a soothing and easy trail. 

Norfolk Pines in every direction on Judd trail

About a half hour into the hike, I guessed I had stumbled onto the Nu'uanu trail when it started to turn into a ridge that got steeper and narrower. Interestingly, other hikers I passed couldn't tell if they were on the Nu'uanu or Judd trail either. There were no signs. It was a little nerve wrecking seeing little trails that branched off in different directions and sometimes, there was an arrow which pointed both to the left and right. I later discovered one was a shorter and steeper route while the other was more level and longer. Either way led up to an intersection before branch off again. The red soil was extremely slippery because it had been raining the last few days. I had to constantly get a good footing so as not to slip. This ridge was extremely steep. I guessed the edge was about a 20 degree angle all the way down. 

Nu'uanu trail forest - wet, thick and mosquito infested

it would be a steep fall down this narrow Nu'uanu trail

Still, the uphill hike of Nu'uanu trail gave me quite a sweat which was the workout I needed. The Nu'uanu waterfall was a little disappointing. It was about a 50 feet long and 25 feet high with water tricking down onto the trail. The thick tropical trees made it dark and moldy looking. Some parts of the trail was a little steep and there were ropes which were supposed to help with the hike but they were wet and moldy. 

Nu'uanu trail waterfall

Stony and slippery part of Nu'uanu Trail with the ropes

Rare glimpse of the mystical Pali valley through the heavily wooded trail

This tropical forest was swarming with mosquitoes. It was impossible to stop to enjoy the view and I kept wishing I brought my repellent. This trail wasn't among the prettiest I'd seen here so far. Nevertheless, I was happy to find my way home after about 4 hours of hiking and was relieved that I had not gotten lost through all the different trails.

Wa’ahila Ridge trail hike

Wa'ahila trail on O'ahu

It literally was a trail on top a ridge of the mountains with Manoa valley to the west and Palolo valley to the east. I had to keep from looking to the bottom too much because sometimes the howling of the wind made me wonder if I might just fall below and never be found! The beauty of the greenery around made me gasp in awe. It's the most beautiful forest playground, a trail passing through an ever-changing landscape from covered in pine trees to rocks, moss, grass and mud. It was freeing wandering deeper and deeper into this green wonderland stepping over roots of trees that had been there for hundreds of years and sometimes looking above through the trees to catch a glimpse of the deep blue sky above. 

Norfolk Pines in the park where the trail starts

the gorgeous ridge trail begins

feels like a walk through fairyland

most of the trail is hidden under thick shrubs shading the sun and wind off of hikers 

certain parts of the trails require some fun climb over large rocks 

a lovely staircase of roots on this ridge

The best part was that I was almost alone. I probably ran into less than 10 people in the 3 hours of hiking. The Wa'ahila trail came close to an end with the trees opening up to the blue sky and I could see Manoa Valley on the west and Palolo Valley to the east. I think living in China really made me appreciate natural beauty and fresh air more than I can ever imagine forever. I'm thankful to be in a place where the natural fauna are well protected with many 'sacred' areas that remain untouched. Sometimes, the best things in life are free and no amount of money can ever buy. And for some things, once it's gone, it's gone forever.

Ko'alau range and Waikki

The trail ends at the end of the ridge and continues into Kolowalu trail. The summit is prohibited because it's a restricted watershed area. It was beautiful to look at. After traversing 

through the last two hours of this forestry I wondered what more beauty that area had to offer.

Facing east: the hues of green in the Palolo Valley restricted watershed area was amazing to gaze upon

where Wa'ahila ridge trail and Kolowalu trail intersects

this mossy area was so cozy, I could've slept on it for hours

I went home today feeling oddly healed. Being surrounded by such stunning beauty in its purest forms made me come to terms with a lot - myself, my life, people in my life, my priorities. Being here by myself, this open space, the freedom to roam these mountains, fresh air, sunshine, big blue sky, wind blowing all around, beautiful trees flourishing all by themselves, it was freeing, it was so easy to see clearly. I was surrounded by nothing and yet it was everything. My heart felt like it was bursting with fullness and life. I was happy. It was easy to find peace here. Perhaps at this moment, I could see God. His beauty. His love. His magnificent work. It was wondrous.

 big old roots providing a safe walkway along this steep ridge

back at the trail head